Plant Care Guides
Everything you need to know to keep your aquatic plants thriving. From beginner basics to advanced techniques.
First Steps
Getting Started
New to aquatic plants? Start here. These fundamentals will set you up for success.
Acclimating Your Plants
When your plants arrive, they need time to adjust to your tank conditions.
- Remove plants from packaging immediately
- Rinse gently in dechlorinated water
- Float in tank for 15-20 minutes to temp adjust
- Plant or attach according to species type
Melt is Normal!
Don't panic if some leaves melt in the first 1-2 weeks. This is called "transition melt" and is completely normal.
Why it happens: Plants grown emersed (above water) or in different water parameters need to adapt. Old leaves may die off, but new growth will be adapted to your tank.
Pro tip: Remove melting leaves to prevent decay and keep your water clean.
Planting Methods
Different plants need different approaches:
Stem Plants
Plant directly into substrate, bury 1-2 nodes deep
Rhizome Plants (Buce, Anubias)
Attach to hardscape with glue or thread - never bury the rhizome!
Carpeting Plants
Separate into small portions, plant in grid pattern 1" apart
Moss
Attach to hardscape or mesh, keep thin layers for best growth
Your First Week
Set yourself up for success with these early steps:
- Day 1-3: Reduce lighting to 6 hours to minimize algae
- Day 3-7: Gradually increase to 8 hours
- Week 1: Do a 25% water change mid-week
- Fertilizer: Start at half dose, increase after 2 weeks
Know Your Plants
Plant Type Guides
Each plant type has unique needs. Learn what makes them thrive.
Bucephalandra
The crown jewel of aquatic plants. Slow-growing, stunning, and surprisingly easy.
Light
Low-Medium
CO2
Optional
Growth
Slow
Difficulty
Easy
Key tip: Never bury the rhizome! Attach to rock or wood with super glue gel.
Bonus: Their shimmer (iridescence) shows best under quality LED lighting.
Carpeting Plants
Create a lush green carpet. Monte Carlo is beginner-friendly; HC Cuba needs more care.
Light
Medium-High
CO2
Recommended
Growth
Moderate
Difficulty
Moderate
Monte Carlo: Can carpet without CO2 (slower). Great for beginners.
HC Cuba: Requires CO2 for dense carpet. More demanding but stunning.
Aquatic Moss
Versatile, forgiving, and shrimp-approved. Perfect for natural aquascapes.
Light
Low-Medium
CO2
Optional
Growth
Slow-Moderate
Difficulty
Easy
Java Moss: Bulletproof. Grows in almost any conditions.
Christmas Moss: Triangular fronds, attach to wood for tree effect.
Floating Plants
Natural filtration, shade for fish, and effortless beauty. Just add water.
Light
Medium
CO2
Not Needed
Growth
Fast
Difficulty
Very Easy
Red Root Floaters: Red coloration under strong light. Stunning!
Frogbit: Fast grower, excellent nitrate absorber.
Light It Up
Lighting Guide
Light is the foundation of plant growth. Here's what you need to know.
Low Light
15-30 PAR
Basic aquarium light, stock hood light
Best for: Anubias, Java Fern, Bucephalandra, Java Moss
Photo period: 6-8 hours
Medium Light
30-50 PAR
Quality planted tank LED (Fluval, Nicrew)
Best for: Most plants! Monte Carlo, Crypts, Swords, all Buce
Photo period: 7-9 hours
High Light
50-100+ PAR
Pro LEDs (Twinstar, Chihiros, ONF)
Best for: HC Cuba, red plants, demanding carpets
Photo period: 6-8 hours (CO2 required)
More light = more everything needed
High light without CO2 and nutrients = algae. Start low and increase gradually. It's easier to add light than to fight algae.
The Growth Accelerator
CO2 Guide
CO2 isn't required for most plants, but it can take your tank to the next level.
Do You Need CO2?
CO2 NOT Required
Bucephalandra, Anubias, Java Fern, Java Moss, Crypts, most stem plants, Monte Carlo (grows slower)
CO2 Recommended
HC Cuba, Glossostigma, red plants at peak color, fast-growing stem plants for dense growth
CO2 Options
If You Use CO2
Start Low
Begin at 1 bubble per second, increase gradually
Turn On Before Lights
CO2 should start 1-2 hours before lights on
Use a Drop Checker
Lime green = ideal. Blue = too low. Yellow = too high (danger to fish)
Watch Your Fish
Gasping at surface = CO2 too high. Reduce immediately.
Plant Nutrition
Fertilizer Basics
Plants need nutrients to thrive. Here's a simple approach to fertilization.
All-in-One Fertilizers
One bottle, everything your plants need. Easy and effective.
Examples: Easy Green, Thrive, APT Complete
Dosing: Follow label, usually 1-2x per week
Root Tabs
For heavy root feeders planted in inert substrate.
Best for: Swords, Crypts, Vallisneria
Placement: Push into substrate near roots, replace monthly
EI Dosing (Advanced)
For high-tech tanks with CO2. Maximum growth potential.
Method: Dose macros + micros on alternating days
Requires: 50% weekly water changes
Common Deficiency Signs
Nitrogen
Yellowing older leaves, stunted growth
Iron
Pale new leaves, loss of red coloration
Potassium
Pinholes in leaves, brown edges
Phosphorus
Dark or purple older leaves
Shrimp Keepers
Shrimp-Safe Care
Keeping shrimp with plants? Here's what you need to know to keep everyone happy.
Shrimp-Safe Practices
-
Quarantine new plants
Soak in dechlorinated water for 24-48 hours before adding to tank
-
Use shrimp-safe fertilizers
Copper-free formulas only. Easy Green, APT are safe.
-
CO2 with caution
Don't over-do CO2 - shrimp are sensitive to pH swings
-
Moss is your friend
Shrimp love grazing on moss - provides biofilm and hiding spots
Avoid These
-
Copper-based products
Even trace amounts can be lethal to shrimp
-
Pesticide-treated plants
Never buy from big-box stores without quarantine
-
Liquid Carbon overdose
Products like Excel can harm shrimp if overdosed
-
Algaecides
Most algae treatments are harmful to invertebrates
Good news: All plants from Cole's Aquatics are grown without pesticides and are shrimp-safe!
Problem Solving
Troubleshooting
Common problems and how to fix them.
Cause: Imbalance between light, CO2, and nutrients
Solution:
- Reduce photo period to 6 hours
- Do 2-3 large water changes (50%) this week
- Remove algae manually
- Add fast-growing plants to out-compete algae
- Consider adding Amano shrimp or Nerite snails
If new plants: Transition melt is normal. Remove dead leaves and wait 2-3 weeks for new growth.
If established plants:
- Check water parameters (ammonia, nitrite should be 0)
- Ensure proper lighting
- Check for root damage or buried rhizomes
- Add fertilizer if not dosing
Cause: Usually potassium deficiency
Solution:
- Add potassium supplement or increase all-in-one dosing
- Seachem Flourish Potassium is a good standalone option
Note: Can also be snail damage - check for pond snails at night!
Check these in order:
- Light: Is your light strong enough? Many stock lights are too weak.
- Nutrients: Are you fertilizing? Plants need food.
- CO2: For demanding plants, this may be the limiting factor.
- Time: Some plants (like Buce) are naturally slow. Be patient!
Old leaves yellowing: Likely nitrogen deficiency. Increase fertilizer dosing.
New leaves pale/yellow: Iron deficiency. Add iron supplement.
All leaves yellowing: Check for root problems or extreme parameter issues.
Still Have Questions?
We're always happy to help. Reach out and we'll give you personalized advice for your tank.